2026
I recently celebrated my 12th Anniversary on X. Geez! I’ve been trolling knuckleheads there since 2013! I decided to celebrate by posting something from way back when. My earliest posts were lost in transfers from WP to Substack. But I did manage to find two stories from a trip to Belize.
In 2013 Lyn and I were considering a move offshore. The Admiral (wife) gave me a week to recon and learn everything we needed to know about Belize. To my everlasting regret, and her relief, having nothing to do with Belize itself, we stayed on mainland US. But I thoroughly enjoyed globetrotting in those house-hunting days.
Below are stories about my trip to Corozal, and a Belize wedding I was asked to write about.
I know much about the country has changed since then. From research, at least Ambergris seems to have lost a lot of the simplicity I enjoyed there. That is likely a very good thing for the locals. But, I wonder if June’s Kitchen in Corozal (mentioned below) has survived the surge in economic growth. I hope so.
Enjoy!
October 2013
Sadly, I cannot include a lot of pictures in this feature, or my piece about Punta Gorda. On the final day of my trip to Belize I left my computer and memory sticks in my cabin. I recovered the computer, but the sticks and all my pictures from Corozal and PG are gone. I only have the few I took with my phone.
On Day 2 I returned to Captain Morgan’s to find that happy hour ends at 1800. Poop! With the schedule I’d set for the week it looked like I’d never see happy hours at the pavilion. Oh, well. I had an early morning ahead of me so a couple Belikins would have to do.
Just before turning in I went to the desk to find out what time the resort’s boat headed out. I had a 0630 flight out of San Pedro and was hoping I could convince the boat to make an early run. It was at that point I found out their boat only goes out to drop guests for activities the resort provides or arranges. The first water taxi takes on passengers at 0630. Oops.
That left me in quite a bind. I chatted up to one of the well-armed security guards who patrols the beach. He said he would try to help me out. I told him I’d be up at around 0500.
Sure enough, at exactly 0500, I got a knock at the door. The guard had found a “taxi” (likely a relative) willing to make the run to San Pedro before 0530, but he was going to charge $70BZ. That’s $35 USD for a three-mile ride! At any rate, I was not in a strong bargaining position. The guards waited for the cab with me. A few minutes later a car rolled up the road behind the resort. It was a rickety, road-weary minivan that didn’t seem to want to keep running. Getting the RPMs up enough just turn around was only the beginning of the adventure.
The roads on Ambergris and in many other areas of Belize are…how do I say this kindly...pre-Roman. You could house a family of five in some of the more common potholes. The roads are compressed sand, rather interesting until rainwater hits a low point, then the hole starts and grows daily. The puddles kept killing the engine. The driver had to PRAY the vehicle across these little lakes in the hopes of drifting to the other side so he could restart the engine each time it stalled.
I started the trip thinking that I had gotten too early a start and would have to sit around the airfield for a long time. Not so. I took over an hour to reach the hard macadam of the San Pedro main street. I paid the driver the $70BZ and added another ten for his effort.
Tropic Air – This is serious fun.
Still having a few minutes, I had the driver drop me at the town clock and walked to the airfield. The terminal was buzzing and there were pilots everywhere as they prepared to fan out all over the little country. The early flights were leaving at quite a clip. Getting my ticket was a snap. I grabbed some coffee and my kindle and settled in for a few minutes.
When called, the passengers leave the terminal and are escorted to their plane, a small twin-engine with maroon trim. The flight to Corozal takes about 25 minutes.
I landed in Corozal just after dawn. The sun was just starting to warm the air. Everything had a gold early morning hue. This intensified the greens of the grasses and palm trees - a perfect day for exploring. I was to meet my friend Lincoln at the gate of the tiny air terminal. From plane to gate was a 20 second walk, tops.
He hadn’t arrived so I took in the area and breathed in the air. Everything was quiet and peaceful. I spoke to a contractor that provides services for the two little airlines here. Like nearly all the people I had met in my first two days, he was pleasant and friendly. I asked him about real estate, the local economy, anything that popped into my head. He was only too glad to talk. After a few minutes, Lincoln Eiley arrived. He is a real estate agent for Re/Max. I had gotten his name from a Re/Max agent in Ambergris Caye who I would never meet in person. But that’s for another story. Lincoln and I had corresponded quite a bit. He knew what I was looking for. He, along with his business partner, Adrian would act as my guides and mentors for the day.
We exchanged pleasantries and set about making a very basic plan. We had a lot to do and see before the last plane left eleven hours later. What were my price parameters? How many places do I want to see? What sites am I interested in? We filled in some tentative numbers and decided take a furthest to nearest approach so we’d end the day close to the airport. Then Lincoln hit on the most important question of the day: Have you eaten yet?
The answer was no, and I was famished. But I knew where I wanted to go. “Take me to June’s Kitchen”. Lincoln only knew of the place but had never been there. He had to look it up to find it (That would be #26 3rd Street South for anyone wanting the best breakfast in Corozal.) and off we went.
June’s Kitchen is a little-known Corozal gem. It seems as many tourists know of it as local people. This is enough to keep five tables on her front porch busy every morning and have people line up every Sunday for breakfast and lunch. That’s correct I said porch. Her serving area is the porch of her house, now enclosed. Her kitchen is an upgraded and bustling family kitchen. Meals are carried right through her living room where June’s husband, now retired, may be watching TV or reading. June is also a gem. She has indulged a love of cooking, instilled by her grandmother since early childhood. She’s prepared food for just about every soul in Corozal, though most don’t even know it. She’s worked for restaurants and even cooked for the school districts for some years. With this little restaurant, one suspects, June is able to create the food she knows best in the way only she can do it. Her reward is a brisk business and customers who fuss over the quality of the food. I was one of those people. We were treated to a tour of her kitchen and spent a few minutes chatting with our host.
The pictures I took of the little restaurant and kitchen - and June - are among the missing. Trust me, You’ll love June.
Adrian, Lincoln’s business partner, met us over breakfast. We discussed economics and politics. Lincoln is tuned in to the economy and the people. I believe he writes articles for the local paper and has a blog. He told me of the early days of the tourist and housing boom, and how quickly it turned down with the trouble in foreign economies. Lincoln had to meet another client so we made plans to regroup after lunch and Adrian and I headed for the outlying areas.
For some time now, it’s been said that gringos moving to Belize might consider Corozal as their destination. The primary reason was its proximity to conveniences that Canadians and American are used to right across the border in Chetmal, Mexico. I respectfully disagree. Corozal should be considered in its own right. After all, there is far more to life than conveniences. Most people don’t dream of life in the tropics and say: Wow! I can’t wait to move to the bay in the North of Belize and have access to a good shoe outlet.
As important as these things can be for the average retiree, I would suggest you remain focused on your dream, life in a warm environment, blue water, a friendly town and jungles to explore. Not to mention an inexpensive jumping off point to the Yucatan and the islands.
Moving to Belize? Bring YOUR OWN 4-wheel drive!
Our progress was difficult that morning. I had heard repeatedly how the north had gotten far more rain than usual during the latter part of the wet season and the roads were suffering. We had to take a few detours because the roads were washed out. Four wheel drive pickups are extremely popular - and expensive in Belize.
By the time Adrian got us to the first property I was quite turned around. This house was at the top of my budget limit. It was a two story, concrete house with a fenced in yard. It was well maintained by an American ex-pat. There was closet space and a very nice deck. The inside was small by modern American standards, but it made very good use of space.
Interestingly, next to the deck is a poison wood tree, which is a very appropriate name. Rub against it and you’ll get a nasty, burny, rash. Fortunately, for folks living here, there is a gumbo limbo tree in the front yard. This tree’s bark is a very effective antidote to the poison wood. Indeed, the present owner has had two run-ins with the poison wood while gardening. By the time he got to the front yard his arm was burning, but with a slice of the bark on the gumbo limbo and a quick rub, presto, no rash. But I digress.
The house was on the market for $180,000.
Next, Adrian took me to a newer development, on one street that dead-ended right on the bay. We got out and walked around a bit and spoke to some of the neighbors. One even let us tour his house. He had it built and did a lot of the work himself. He sent me away with lots of tips.
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Remember, when you shop at Po River you help keep the lights on at the P4B/Free Zone!
Building tips for Belize near the beach.
First, when building, use concrete. Drive your footers as deep as possible. His went 70 feet to bedrock. The house is settling very little, if at all, and in the event of a hurricane, it’s not going anywhere. To that end, he keeps a small office downstairs. It isn’t fancy. Should a storm score a bull’s eye here, nothing of real value is destroyed.
Keep up maintenance of your water system. Some folks have water delivered, some capture rainwater. But keep your pump and pipes in good condition.
You can live well in Corozal on $1200 per month plus rent, sometimes less.
Your clothing storage shouldn’t be enclosed. But if you MUST have door and drawers, make sure they are well perforated. Air must circulate. In this climate, your stuff can go moldy very easily.
There were still lots for sale on the street. If you are interested in a small neighborhood with friendly helpful neighbors, contact Lincoln or Adrian.
After getting some fuel and dropping Adrian’s wife home from the local college, we grabbed some lunch in town. I had chicken, beans and fries. I don’t recall what Adrian had but we ate a big meal for about $12US total. The town is not fancy. While there are nice places to stay if visiting, it ain’t Time Square. But the neighborhoods are friendly.
Corozal was a bit of a boom town with the sugar industry. But lately with the price fixing…ahem…sugar subsidies in the US and elsewhere, Northern Belize couldn’t compete. They still produce sugar, but it is a hard slog. But hey, at least our guys back here don’t have to invest and compete. They have big government to keep them in the money and convince people that without their tax dollars going to guys who are already rich, the price of sugar would go up to $50 dollars per pound. In reality, the price of sugar would “go up” to the price it is now plus the cost of the subsidy we are paying anyway. And have you priced sugar lately? How’s that workin’ for ya? Fact is, when you throw tax money at something, surprise, it doesn’t get cheaper for the end user. This isn’t a sop about poor Belize. It’s just an example of the government and business community “working together” to no one’s benefit but their own. Check out Economics in One Lesson by Henry Hazlett
After lunch, we were off to Consejo. This was as interesting place. It is a development next to a golf course, my siren call. The houses are not cookie cutter. They were built, mostly, by Barefoot Properties. The owner of the company builds houses where he intends to live. Nobody does that. He can because his work is top notch. He never has to worry about neighbors calling him day and night with problems. That’s confidence. He has an amazing house on the market for $300,000 US. It is worth every penny. Sadly, I don’t have every penny. But I can afford the lot next to that house in the event I decide to build. And I do have ideas.
Of note: on the northwest corner of this neighborhood is a small customs station and a ferry that will get you to Chetmal, Mexico in just a few minutes for shopping. Remember, duties will be paid. So, only get what you need or REALLY, REALLY want.
On our way back to the city, we stopped on the main road to look at a place called Oasis Phase II. Here, I found a house I really like. Barefoot set out to build a house to prove to the codes and permit people that a wooden structure can survive a hurricane. The secret is in the wall design. But the layout of the house was very cool and included a soaker pool, sort of an indoor swimming pool in the living room. The owner gave me a REALLY good price. I was not in a position to take it, as I own a house in Virginia. But I promise you, if I could have, I’d have taken the house on the spot. From the looks of his latest ad, it may have sold. If it hasn’t sold, he’ll make you a good deal too, I am sure.
Our shadows were lengthening and my plane was about to turn into a pumpkin. Adrian and I headed into town, had drinks with coffee with Lincoln and said our goodbyes.
As of this writing, I have not settled on where to retire. But with its low crime, low cost of living and good people, Corozal and most of Belize are on the short list.
Destination Weddings
A Tropical Variant
By Matt Jordan
When planning a destination wedding, the bride or her designee, tends to think big, circus big. Then the details are teased out leaving the best ingredients for a memorable production. This is as it should be. The most amazing destination wedding I can recall was in Nags Head. The bridesmaids walked up the beach from a large house to where the groom and groomsmen awaited. They all met at the edge of the surf. A large family flanked them. Then the bride appeared with her grandfather on a deck high above the gathering and descended to join everyone. Sheer class. The nearby reception was one for the record books. Big is always expected at such affairs.
But sometimes, if you’re cool – really cool – less is more. Recently, I was invited to cover a wedding of a young successful couple; Kirk and Jessica. These two could have had any kind of wedding they wanted. This is the story of the one they created.
On a sunny Tuesday afternoon, at the assigned hour, I arrived at Casa Redondo. I had expected a large bustling hotel, the staff making preparations, nervous bride, tuxes and gowns, the whole nine. Boy, was I surprised! Casa Redondo is a large, tasteful, seaside villa about 3 miles South of San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. It features an eternity pool; a spacious veranda surrounded by lush landscaping and coconut trees. There is a small sandy beach for swimming, snorkeling or relaxing. Timid lizards scurry about on a nearby jetty. A large second floor deck overlooks all. There was no staff – save the groundskeeper – and no panicky wedding party. I walked tentatively around the grounds, crossing the veranda near the pool. “Hey!” From behind sliding screen doors the groom, Kirk was calling. “Look who’s here!” I stepped into the house.
Did I say these kids were cool? It’s after one o’clock. There’s a wedding in less than two hours. The wedding party is lounging in the parlor playing trivial pursuit. Half the guests are still in town. It appears the florist has completely forgotten about the event. Jessica, the bride, is holding hands with Kirk, calm and half listening to the trivia questions Craig, the minister for today, is reading from little cards.
“Wow!” I say leaning toward bride and groom, “If this was back home in Philly, the uncles and the brothers would be on their way to see the florist. Something unfortunate would probably occur. The bride would be in need of a sedative.”
“Not me”, Jess says. “I’ve been to those kinds of weddings.” Kirk and Jessica had decided at the very outset that this was going to be a romantic, light, airy occasion. If there was to be flowers, fine. If not…”Hey, I’m getting married today!” Jessica says with happy conviction.
A few months earlier, they started considering what kind of wedding they wanted. Jessica thought a destination wedding would be nice. Kirk came up with Belize. It fit they’re interests, diving, fishing, snorkeling. Kirk and Jess are very athletic and outdoorsy. With a little research they came away with this place and Casa de Lisa next door, more than enough room for the guests. The original guest list was at least a hundred strong. Jessica knew that not everyone would make the trip and that would thin the numbers. Kirk was a bit saddened but realistic that a life-long friend would not be there.
After an hour, the rest of the family and friends started to roll in. People started getting dressed. Everyone was joking, posing for silly pictures and not hurrying. At three, I was talking to Kirk and his father, still in tee shirts, by the pool. A thundercloud passed late in the afternoon providing a short drizzle and a rainbow over the water. That seemed to be the cue. The guests gathered on the beach alongside isles formed by palm leaves and flowers in the sand. Kirk, the best man and the celebrant stepped up to an arbor, their backs to the water. The moment had arrived.
The bride steps from the side of the villa and walks to join her fiancé. Craig conducts a well thought-out, unrehearsed ceremony. The bride and groom tearfully sniff their way through vows they’d each written. Craig reads an inspirational quote from William Fielding , rings are exchanged. And in the fading blue and pink sunlight Jessica and Kirk are declared man and wife.
Rock solid, undiluted cool.
Upon returning to the villa, even before climbing to the upper deck, our attention was captured by the smokey, savory scent of the Jamaican feast awaiting us. That was the work of Fitz Brown and his crew from the Jambel’s in San Pedro. He was commissioned to cater this affair 18 hours prior.
Featured in his buffet presentation:
Veggie and Fruit salads
Conch Fritters made with tartar, jerk sauce, mayo and lime.
Barbecued Jerk Ribs with a BBQ, jerk blend with just a touch of chili pepper.
Jamaican Mi Crazy Shrimp with sweet and sour, spicy jerk sauce
Fisherman soup (lobster and shrimp) with coconut and okra
Fitz didn’t reveal all the ingredients. He’s no fool and the food was fantastic. The food is always just as good at Jambel’s Jerk Pit on the beach in San Pedro. It’s on the beach where the ferries and water taxis tie up. Fitz is hard-working and urbane without being the least bit stuffy. His staff, as I would find in other accommodations throughout Ambergris, is delightful.
If you are planning a destination wedding, you can hardly put a foot wrong with Belize. Flights are always reasonable. And there are a range of options available to suit your plans. Many resorts have wedding planners either in house or within easy reach. Of course if you are as cool as Kirk and Jessica, and sweet and simple is your goal, you can do it yourself.